Christmas Vacation in Luang Prabang: An Unforgettable City in Laos- English
1. Christmas Vacation in Luang Prabang: An Unforgettable City in Laos
Day 0 and 1
Over two weeks ago, Gisela and I returned from one of the most amazing trips we ever did! Gisela had four days off from work for Christmas vacation. We did a tour of Luang Prabang, a city in northern Laos. I can't say enough how fantastic the trip was. We did the tour through Realistic Asia, a travel agency based in Vietnam that organizes tours of various Southeast Asian countries such as Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar. I highly recommend booking with them when traveling to these countries! They create excellent itineraries, are helpful during the preparation process, and focus on supporting local communities. I am excited to share this trip, so let's get started!
It all started on a Friday night when Gisela came home from work and picked me up; we grabbed our 40L huge Osprey backpack and rode bus 937 to Dongdaegu Bus Terminal. We got some drinks and fruit from the convenience store at the station and rode the bus to Incheon. When we arrived, it was about 01:30 in the morning. The bus terminal was empty. It was too late to use public transportation, so Gisela ordered a taxi on the Kakao Taxi app. She put the hotel name, Hotel Yeongjong Incheon Airport, but it didn't appear because it wasn't in Korean. Gisela tried to look for the hotel address in Korean, but she couldn't find it.
We were stranded in the cold, hoping a taxi would pass by. When they kept passing by, there were people already inside them. There was a point when Gisela opened a taxi door to see someone inside. She quickly closed the door. We were waiting more in the cold, and Gisela's phone was almost dead. Then, a taxi finally pulled over. Gisela showed him the address and told him the name of the hotel. She took out her portable charger to charge her phone. The car ride to the hotel was long. Then, the driver ended up taking us to the wrong hotel because he misheard the name of it, and the address was incorrect because it wasn't in Korean. We were stranded at a random hotel in an obscure place. We walked inside, hoping we could ask someone where the correct hotel was. Gisela rang the bell inside the frigid lobby. No one came. There was not a single person in sight.
Gisela thought she heard noise from the basement. She looked and no one was there. Gisela rang the bell again and again. No one came. It was past two in the morning, and she was panicking. I told Gisela to chill and to see if we could put in the address of another hotel next to our hotel. Gisela managed to find an address for another hotel in the Korean alphabet. She put it in, and the taxi came to pick us up. We rode to the hotel, and the driver dropped us off. Gisela tried to find on her phone how far our hotel was. We were lost because Gisela's phone was fussy with how to get there. We were freezing, and there were random drunk people on the street. We decided to see if we could spend the night at another hotel. It seemed like our hotel was impossible to find. We went to the lobby and asked the staff member if we could spend the night there. He said the rooms are full. Then Gisela asked him where our hotel was. Then he showed her how to get there and told Gisela she could take a picture of the directions on his phone. Gisela thanked him, and we managed to find our hotel!
When we went to the check-in desk, a key card with Gisela's name was on it. She picked it up, and we took the elevator to our floor. We went to our room. The room was clean, and the bed looked comfortable. Gisela turned on the heater to make the room warmer. Then we got ready for bed and slept a few hours before waking to our alarm. We got up early, packed our things, and checked out at the front desk. Then Gisela ordered a taxi to take us to the airport. When we got there, we checked in for our flight to Hanoi, Vietnam. We had a layover there before going to Luang Prabang. Then, we were told we needed to take a shuttle to our gate. We tried to find the shuttle and saw a sign for the airport train. When we went there, Gisela asked the staff member; he said the shuttle was past immigration and security. Gisela was embarrassed but thanked him.
We then waited in line and went through immigration and then security. Then, we took the shuttle to the part of the airport where we needed to be. We went to our gate. Since we did not eat breakfast, we got a bagel and a latte with oat milk. After we ate, we boarded our plane to Vietnam. The flight was a little under five hours. It was so cool to fly over the mountains in China. Then we finally landed in Hanoi. When we got off the plane, we had to wait in a crowded and confusing line for immigration. There were so many people that it was confusing where we needed to be. There was a line for those who already had the electronic visa and those who needed to get a visa on arrival. Gisela got her electronic transit visa in advance already.
We tried to find staff members with uniforms and name tags. They told Gisela where she needed to be. Then, we waited in line for a long time and finally went through immigration. Then we went to the "arrivals" section of the airport, and pushy taxi drivers were asking Gisela if she needed a taxi ride, more pushy people were asking Gisela if she wanted a SIM card, and even pushy people asked Gisela if she needed to change money. Gisela said no to all of them. Then we went to a place to get food. Gisela and I got a vegetable baguette sandwich and coffee with coconut milk. Then we took the escalator to the "departures" section of the airport and ate our late lunch.
After eating, we checked in for our flight to Luang Prabang. The staff member at the desk asked Gisela about her visa. She said she was going to get it on arrival. He said to make sure she had enough USD for the visa because there are no ATMs in the immigration part of the airport. Gisela said she does. Then we went through immigration, and then we made it to our gate. Since we had a lot of time, we walked around the airport. The people in front of the restaurants and souvenir shops were also pushy and kept asking if Gisela wanted their products or services. Gisela was annoyed. Then we found a place to get dinner. Gisela and I got a vegetarian bahn mi. It was tasty.
Then we bought water and boarded our plane to Laos. The flight was a little over an hour. We also ate this great cheesy pastry during the flight. We ate so much food that day. Then we landed in Laos. We got off the plane and had our arrival visa forms ready. Immigration was fast, and we noticed the Luang Prabang airport was tiny. After that, we met our guide for the trip, Phet. He waited for us at the airport. We greeted each other, and then Gisela went to get Laotian kip, the currency of Laos. Then Phet took us to the van. We met the driver, who didn’t know English. On the 15-minute car ride to the hotel, Phet introduced us to Laos and Luang Prabang.
Laos is a landlocked country (meaning it doesn’t border an ocean) in Southeast Asia. Laos borders China and Myanmar to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the southeast, and Thailand to the southwest. The capital is Vientiane, which is close to the Thailand border. Laos has almost 7.8 million people, and Luang Prabang has about 55,000 inhabitants. A little over half of the population is of Lao descent (a Tai ethnic group not to be confused with the Thai people of Thailand), and the country has over 50 recognized ethnic minorities such as the Hmong, Akha, Kmhmu, Lue, and Katang peoples. Laos is a Buddhist-majority country, and other people practice folk religions from their respective ethnic minority groups. A small percentage of the population is Christian and Muslim.
As you can see, Laos is a very ethnically diverse nation. To introduce Luang Prabang, it’s in northern Laos, and the name means “Royal Buddha Image.” Luang Prabang as a town has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. Luang Prabang is known for its well-preserved architecture (such as Buddhist temples and monasteries) and culture. The architecture consists of a mix of traditional and French colonial architecture when France colonized Laos. Luang Prabang is also located at the meeting point of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers. Because much of Laos is in the mountains, it has times of the year when it’s cooler. In Luang Prabang, it gets colder at night and in the morning in December. During the daytime, it gets warmer. I will share more about this fascinating city as I walk through what we did.
So we arrived at the hotel, which was called Sanctuary Hotel Luang Prabang, and Phet took us to the lobby to check-in. The staff gave us a welcome drink, which tasted like a tea. It was great! So we checked in, and Phet told us the meeting time for the following morning. Gisela and I were so thrilled to be in Laos. Then, one of the staff members walked us to our room. She said the evening temperature felt cold. Gisela told her that she lives in Korea now and that it was minus 10 degrees when we left. The hotel staff member said she couldn’t imagine being in that freezing weather.
She told us the hotel only offered glass bottled water and that we could refill it at the station in the hallway. Then we thanked her and went into our room. Our room was spacious and had many traditional handcrafted decorations. There was also a photograph of Lao children playing in the river, presumably the Mekong. Gisela and I were so thrilled we were dancing as we unpacked. Then we got ready for bed and went to sleep, as we had a long, fun day ahead!
Day 2
The following morning, Gisela and I woke up to our alarm. Then we got dressed and got our things ready for the day. We went to the lobby for breakfast. The hotel's courtyard had a small pond and lush plants. It was also near the hotel pool. We walked to the restaurant that served our buffet breakfast. There was so much to try! For breakfast, we got vegetable noodles, banana bread, a coconut dessert, potato wedges, and fresh mango jam. We also drank black coffee. Breakfast was fresh, and we enjoyed the view of the courtyard.
After a satisfying breakfast, we went to the lobby for our tour promptly at 9. Phet and I greeted each other with the nop (the Laotian bow with the prayer gesture) and entered the van. We also greeted the driver. Our first stop was Wat Ho Pha Bang, a Buddhist temple near the Royal Palace Museum. Phet explained to us that people inhabited Luang Prabang for thousands of years. Luang Prabang was the former capital of Laos before it was moved to Vientiane. Luang Prabang had three former names. Its first name was Muang Sua, which dates back to the end of the 7th century CE. Lao prince Khun Lo conquered the area before the king of Nanzhao in China. As a result, Khun Lo got the city as an award from his father, Khun Borom. Khun Lo had a long dynasty in the area with fifteen rulers. It was also when Theravada Buddhism was introduced to the region from Sri Lanka and Cambodia.
The second name of the city was Xieng Tong, which was from the 14th to the 16th century. The Lao Kingdom grew, and then it became a massive kingdom. Then, Luang Prabang changed its name to Lane Xang. King Setthathirath transferred the capital to Vientiane in 1560 because Vientiane was overall larger in area and size. The city also had contact with European emissaries, particularly during the reign of King Surigna Vongsa. After he died in 1694, Lane Xang broke into three Lao kingdoms: Vientiane, Champasak, and Luang Prabang. The kingdom of Luang Prabang was named after the royal Buddha image in the city. Then, the French annexed Laos; however, they recognized Luang Prabang as a royal as the royal seat of Laos, and there were still Lao kings that ruled. The rulers served as figureheads.
At the end of the 1800s, Luang Prabang, especially its temples, was attacked by bandits from Southern China. They damaged historical documents and stole many Buddha images. When King Sisavangvong ruled from 1904 to 1959 after Laos became independent from France, he focused on restoring the damaged buildings and protecting the Buddha images. In 1946, after WWII, France tried to take over Laos again. During the First Indochina War, the Viet Minh (a Communist national independence coalition led by Ho Chi Minh) and Pathet Lao (a Laotian communist organization) tried to govern Luang Prabang in the mid-1950s, but French troops stopped them. The communist ideals were prevalent in Laos because some people were dissatisfied with the monarchical system. The Lao Civil War lasted from the 1950s to the 1970s, and the United States CIA violently bombed all over the country to fight against communist North Vietnam and Pathet Lao. In 1975, Laos became a Communist country. The monarchy then ceased to exist. Phet explained the history at our first stop. Then he told us what Wat Ho Pha Bang was known for.
It houses the sacred golden Pha Bang. The Buddha image is 83 centimeters high and is made of gold alloy. That Buddha image arrived in 1512 during Lane Xang, representing the importance of Buddhism in Lao society. The Pha Bang is ancient and was cast in the 1st century CE in Sri Lanka. The kings of Angkor (the Khmer Empire, which is now Cambodia) gifted the Pha Bang to Laos. It was brought to Siam (now Thailand) by the Siamese two times (in 1779 and 1827), but it was brought back to Laos in 1867. At the temple complex, we saw a statue of King Sisavangvong, the king of Luang Prabang under the French. When Laos became independent, he ruled the whole country until Communist governance. He supported the French administration. In 1945, he said no to working with Lao nationalists who sought independence. As a result, the Lao Issara Nationalist Movement removed him from power and claimed independence. When the French regained control in 1946, King Sisavangvong became the ruler of Laos.
Then we visited the Royal Palace Museum. The Royal Palace was constructed in 1904 during French colonization. The palace was made for King Sisavangvong and his royal family. The palace also received official visitors, such as political figures, from other countries. In 1975, when the communists dissolved the monarchy, the castle became a national museum to show the history of Laos. We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside. The museum has various rooms, such as the kitchen, conference room, residential rooms, the queen’s reception room, and the entrance hall. The architecture was a mix of Lao and French influences. The entrance of the museum had a three-headed elephant, which represented the monarchy. We saw statues of kings and queens, wall paintings of traditional Lao life, Buddha images, decorations from elephant tusks, ceramics, and objects from silver and gold.
In the reception room, we saw diplomatic gifts to Laos from other countries, such as China, Russia, Thailand, Cambodia, the United States, Nepal, Japan, Vietnam, Australia, Canada, Poland, and Hungary. The items displayed were categorized based on whether a country was “socialist” or “capitalist.” In the throne room, we saw the crown of Laos and the jewels. The museum was so fascinating to walk around. I learned so much about the history of Wat Phrabang and the Royal Palace Museum.
Then, our next stop was Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham. It is a Buddhist temple built in 1796. The temple has a four-tiered roof and façades depicting scenes from the legend of Vessantara. Vessantara was one of Gautama Buddha’s past lives. In that life, he was a prince who gave away everything he possessed to others, even his children. In Buddhism, he represented generosity and virtuousness. When he was born, he asked his mother for money so he could give it to people experiencing poverty. That same day, an elephant gave birth to a pure white baby. Vassantara continued to be a charitable person throughout his life. His parents also supported his decisions and virtuous character. They gave him their wealth so he could give to the less fortunate.
He also became king after his father, Sunjaya, retired. At one point, he gave away the magical white elephant to a neighboring clan from Kalinga. The Kalinga kingdom was suffering economically, so Vassantara gave them his elephant. That led to a massive drought. The citizens were heavily affected and distraught that they wanted Sunjaya to be king again and to banish Vessantara. Indeed, he gave away his kingdom. Then, he gave away his wealth and lived as a hermit with his wife and children. They left to go to Vamka Mountain on a chariot with four horses. Vassantara gave away his horses and then his chariot. Then he and his family walked in the forest. They found fruit, but it was too high for anyone to reach. Then, the trees bent their branches to make it easier to obtain the fruit.
After that, the family arrived in Ceta, another kingdom. The king heard the family’s story and offered them his throne, but Vessantara declined. He also refused to stay inside the palace. They decided to live on Vamka Mountain. To respect their privacy, the king asked a hunter to guard the entrance to the mountain. In the story, there was also a Brahmin (an Indian from the highest caste) who lived as a beggar at that time. He also had a young wife, who brought water from the well to help the old Brahmin. In their village, the husbands of the village women thought of her as a hardworking and perfect wife. This resulted in extreme jealousy from the village women. They came to the well, violently beat up the Brahmin’s wife, and tore off her clothes. She never wanted to go to the well again and asked her husband to find servants to get water for him.
Then, the Brahmin went to the entrance of Vamka Mountain and lied to the hunter that Vessantara’s banishment was lifted. Vessantara’s wife was away when the Brahmin arrived. The Brahmin asked Vessantara for his two children. The two children hid in a lotus pond, and when their father found them, he asked them to help him achieve Buddhahood in his future life. The children agreed and were given away. They became the servants of the Brahmin. Then Vessantara asked the Brahmin to bring the children to their grandfather, Sunjaya. The Brahmin said no because Sunjaya could execute him. Then, the Brahmin tied the children with vines and dragged them to the ground. The frightened children wanted their father to help them. The Brahmin was also beating them with a stick. Vassantara got angry and was about to grab a weapon. He stopped because he couldn’t let his anger control him. Thus, he let the children go.
His wife came back, but the entrance was blocked by deities disguised as tigers. Then, she looked aimlessly for her children. Then, she collapsed when she was near her husband. He thought she died, but when she put her head on his lap, she was still breathing. He told his wife what happened, and she said he was great for giving away their children. The deities feared that Vassantara would give away his wife to cruel people. Then, one deity disguised as a human and asked for his wife. Vassantara gave away his wife, not knowing it was to a deity. Then, the gods gave him his wife back, knowing he was benevolent.
Other deities disguised themselves as Vassantara and his wife to nurse their captured children. The Brahmin, as a result, took the wrong direction and ended up at the palace of King Sunjaya. He bought them from the Brahmin, and the Brahmin became rich. He ate a lot, and then he died because of digestive system failure. King Sunjaya also found the Brahmin family to capture their wealth; since the family feared punishment, they ran away. Since Kalinga, the nearby kingdom, regained prosperity, they returned the elephant to Sunjaya’s kingdom. Vassantara and his family were also reunited.
Then they all collapsed, and the deities sent a red rain to bring back the family. Vassantara became king again, and his kingdom received raining gems. Vassantara let the people keep the gems, and he did not want them for himself. When Vassantara reincarnated into Gautama Buddha, each person in his life reincarnated into people in the Buddha’s life. For example, Vassantara’s parents became the Buddha’s parents, and his wife became the Buddha’s former wife. The son became the Buddha’s son, and the daughter became a bhikkhuni, a Buddhist nun. This story is an example of Buddhist ethics, and the purpose is for people to behave in a nonviolent, harmonious, virtuous, and self-restraining way.
Inside Wat Mai, we saw a golden Buddha image along with smaller Buddha images, offerings, and a statue of a Master Monk, who was well-respected by the monks and the civilians in Luang Prabang. The statue sat beside photographs of him to commemorate him after his passing.
After Wat Mai, we visited Wat Visounnarath. This temple complex dates to the 14th century in 1513. It is Luang Prabang’s oldest wat. The temple’s roof is made of gold tiles and has four tiers. The temple has a large Buddha image and smaller Buddha images. They are made of gold, bronze, and some of them wood. There is a focus on protecting the wooden statues so they don’t get eaten by termites. Wat Visounnarath is a vital temple known as a significant pilgrimage site for Buddhists. The monks and their young novices also pray and chant mantras.
People can also witness a daily alms-giving ceremony, which happens every day at around 5 in the morning. The monks receive offerings of food from civilians. The alms ceremony is also famous for tourists to see. Gisela and I did not attend the ceremony because we thought it was wrong. After all, this was a meaningful ceremony for different people, not a tourist spectacle. Not only that, I don’t think it’s okay when tourists photograph the event. It makes it seem like a show, and the tourists don’t always comprehend the real meaning. If you decide to go, be mindful of the purpose. Do you want to learn more about Buddhism and gain insight into the local culture? Or do you want to take flashy photos to post on your Instagram story? Intention is critical here! This temple also had a water blessing ceremony. The sacred water is collected from a basin at the temple and sprinkled on people’s heads to bring luck and protection. The temple is also a popular place on Lao New Year, which is in mid-April each year. People come from all over the Luang Prabang province to celebrate.
After Wat Visounnarath, we went to Wat Aham, which was in the same temple complex. Wat Aham is a newer temple built at the beginning of the 19th century. Wat Aham was constructed in an area that used to have shrines dedicated to animist deities. The shrines were destroyed in the 16th century by King Phothisarath, a devout Buddhist. He believed it was wrong to have shrines for ancient animist religions. After he destroyed the animist shrines, natural disasters affected Luang Prabang. The king’s successor rebuilt the animist shrines in the temple complex.
The modern Wat Aham has a three-tiered roof. There are two statues of lions and of Phalak Phalam, who was the Laotian version of Ramayana. On the inside of the temple, you could see a mural depicting the history of Luang Prabang. You could also see murals depicting Buddhist hell. Based on the wrong deeds one committed in their lifetime, they are sent to a specific chamber in hell and receive the punishment reflective of their evil actions.
After Wat Aham, we stopped at Wat Xieng Tong, named after Xieng Tong. It was completed in 1560 by King Setthathirath. The name means “Temple of the Golden City,” when Luang Prabang thrived as the golden capital of the Lao kingdom. Wat Xieng Tong was a royal temple under the patronage of the Lao royal family. Kings were crowned there, and Buddhist festivals were held there. There was even a library for ancient scripts. Wat Xieng Tong has nine roofs with gold stenciling. There are many pagodas with gold hooks facing the sky, signifying the importance of the temple. We could also see stupas (where dead people’s cremated ashes are placed), Buddha images, and a sanctuary of the Reclining Buddha (the Buddha's position before ascending to the afterlife). On the inside, the red and black walls show mythological scenes and scenes of the cycle of reincarnation. The temple is near a library and a monk living space for monks and their novices. The temple is in excellent condition, and the city is committed to maintaining the temple and restoring damaged pieces.
After visiting Wat Xieng Tong, it was time for lunch. Phet took us to a restaurant that was very vegetarian-friendly! It was called Bamboo Tree Lao Cooking School and Restaurant. The restaurant was facing the Nam Khan River. We sat outside to enjoy the outdoors and the view of the river. The staff was amicable and helpful and gave us excellent recommendations. We drank a mango smoothie, ate a spicy vegetable soup as a starter, and vegetable tofu curry and rice as our main meal. The portions were huge, but the pricing was great. If it were the US, the meal would have been costly. Gisela kept her phone in her fanny pack to enjoy the present moment. I told her that was a great idea.
After a lovely lunch, Phet and the driver took us to the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Center. On the way there, Gisela asked Phet if he grew up in Luang Prabang. He said he grew up in a small town three hours by car from Luang Prabang. When he was 10, he became a monk and lived in the monastery for ten years. After the monastic life, he went to university and studied tourism because he loved learning about different cultures, exploring the world, and meeting new people. He worked for tourist companies, hotels, and restaurants. He has also done tours in Cambodia and Thailand. He has been to many Southeast Asian countries. Gisela asked him how the monastic life was, and he said he enjoyed his experience. I was sure it was a profound spiritual experience for him.
Then we arrived at Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Center. We learned about Laotian textiles and the traditions of women weavers, who passed down their culture from generation to generation. The cultural center has an organization where the women serve as cultural ambassadors and share their beautiful traditions with the world. I liked how the organization and the cultural center as a whole focused on contributing to preserving the timeless weaving traditions. We also got to see some women weaving different fabrics. It looked so hard to do, but they were doing it effortlessly.
Phet also showed us silkworms. We got to learn about the life cycle of the silkworms and how the silk was developed. We also learned about the dyeing process of the fabrics, which come from various sources such as jackfruit, ash, lemongrass, turmeric, beetroot, indigo, and more. Then we learned about the patterns on the fabrics, which were related to symbols of Buddhism. At the end of our visit there, we checked out the souvenir shop, which sold items made by the women weavers. Also, the money spent at the shop directly supported the women. I was happy that the money went to good use. The pricing was fixed and very reasonable. The staff at the shop were kind and calm. They also asked us if we had any questions. Then we bought bamboo straws wrapped in woven cloth. They looked beautiful, and we were sure to use them with our drinks. After Gisela paid, the staff also wished us a merry Christmas.
After our enjoyable experience at the cultural center, Phet took us to Phou Si, a 100-meter hill in the city center. The Mekong River is on one side, and the Nam Khan is on the other. The mountain houses Buddhist shrines and Wat Tham Phou Si, a Buddhist temple. The temple is halfway up the hill, while the top has the Wat Chom Si stupa, and you get a panoramic view of the whole Luang Prabang. To get to the top, you need to climb 328 steps! We braved it and stopped midway to get some pictures of the temple. There were two child monk novices also going up the hill. Gisela and I made sure we kept a distance from them. After all, in Buddhist countries, it is taboo for women to come into physical contact with a monk, even if it’s accidentally brushing past his robes. Anyway, the stupa was built in 1804 by King Anourat.
Concerning the mountain, legend says it was moved from Sri Lanka to Laos by Monkey King Hanuman. Another legend says the Naga (a human and serpent being in Southeast Asian and South Asian mythology) resided there. The views at the top were amazing. Luang Prabang looked so peaceful, and the surrounding mountains were picturesque. There was also a vlogger from South Korea making a video about the area. Phet knew the vlogger, and they talked to each other in Lao. Then Phet explained about Phou Si in the vlogger’s video. After speaking for the video, he told us that the vlogger was teaching informatics and computer science to Laotian students. Though the vlogger doesn’t know English, he speaks fluent Lao. We thought that was impressive.
After enjoying the top of the hill, we went back down the other side, and at the bottom stood Wat Phabang. The temples and the museum were so close to each other! Then, the tour of the day was finished, and we went back to the hotel. Gisela and Phet sorted out the local payment she had to make on arrival at the hotel lobby. Phet also told us about the night market that’s close to the hotel, and we could visit later. We thanked him for the tour, and he said he would see us tomorrow at 8:30. We went to our room to drop off things, sunbathed on the balcony, and headed to the night market for dinner. The market was a short walk from the hotel and straight ahead.
Gisela searched on Happy Cow in advance what vegan and vegetarian-friendly restaurants were in Luang Prabang. Some of the listings were a few stands at the night market! For dinner, we ordered a tofu, rice, and vegetables dish. It was 30,000 Laotian kip (about 1.28 USD)! The seller gave us a table number, and we sat at a random empty table. Then we got our food. It was flavorful, and the tofu was crispy. We wanted to try more food at the night market. We went to another stand and got chocolate roti. It was 20,000 kip, which was about 0.85 USD. It’s so cheap compared to what we would have paid in South Korea and the US for the same meal. Not only that, it tasted amazing!
The market was lively, and we enjoyed walking around and seeing the diverse stands. We stopped at another stand and ordered a small coconut pancake for 15,000 kip (about 0.64 USD). The vendor also suggested the corn pancake, which was the same price. We bought both of them. When getting the street food, we made sure it was freshly cooked on the spot. We also went to popular stands with lots of customers. After eating great food, we walked around and saw more parts of the market. There were vendors selling handicrafts, clothes, and other traditional objects. It was nice browsing around and seeing what people were selling. Gisela and I also felt safe in the night market area. Our only worries were pickpockets. Of course, Gisela watched over her fanny pack and kept her phone inside. We also noticed that some of the vendors looked young. Gisela was wondering about the child labor laws in Laos since some of them looked like young teenagers.
Some vendors had their children with them, helping them out. On one of the alleys, we saw a few children begging. Let me tell you this. If you see children begging, don’t give money or food to them. This only reinforces the vicious cycle. Parents take kids out of school and make them beg on the street. The kids belong in school, not on the street. If you want to help, donate to a reputable charity or ask locals what can be done to keep the children safe. We explored around the markets and down different streets for a while. Since it was getting late, we went back to our hotel. Then we got ready for bed and slept because we had another fun day ahead.
Day 3
Gisela and I woke up to our alarm on Christmas Day. Then we got ready and headed to the restaurant for breakfast. There was soft instrumental Christmas music in the background. It was so nice not having to hear wretched, overplayed Christmas songs with annoying lyrics. Anyway, the buffet was slightly different than the day before. We ate stir-fried vegetables, rice, mango bread with fruit jam, a fried banana, and drank black coffee.
After a lovely breakfast, we went to the front of the lobby to meet up with Phet and the driver a few minutes before 8:30. He wished us a Merry Christmas. Even though Gisela and I don’t celebrate the religious parts of Christmas, it was still nice that he wished us a merry Christmas. Today was going to be a fun day because we were going to take a slow boat on the Mekong River, visit a village known for producing Lao whiskey, visit the Pak Ou Caves, eat lunch in Luang Prabang, and visit the famous Kuang Si Waterfalls. Now, I will introduce the Mekong River. It runs from East Asia to Southeast Asia. Stretching 4,909 km, it is the twelfth longest river in the world and the third longest on the Asian continent. The river starts in Tibet, passes through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, and Cambodia, and ends in Saigon, Vietnam.
The river has served as a major trade route from Tibet to the southeast Asian countries. The Mekong is also an essential resource for the local people, particularly food and water. Beginning in the 2000s, hydroelectric dams were constructed as part of development programs primarily by China and have caused problems, resulting in droughts. The dams are detrimental to the animals in the river and the local people, especially in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand. The Lao government has also done hydroelectric projects on the river. The hydropower was exported to Thailand and helped develop northern Thailand’s less wealthy areas. When there are too many dams, that can cause problems. Animals can’t live, and the local people can’t get food and water sources. Not only that, water pollution by boat motors and plastic ending up in the river have also affected the quality of the water and marine life.
The Mekong has about 850 freshwater fish species. There is also a species of freshwater dolphin known as the Irrawaddy dolphin. However, it is nearly extinct, and there are only 85 left. There is also a giant freshwater stingray that grows up to 5 meters in length. The Mekong giant catfish is 3 meters long and typically weighs 300 kilograms! You can also find sandstone and limestone on the banks of the river. We arrived at the small port to get on the slow boat. Gisela, Phet, and I had our boat with a boat driver. Because of the wind, we felt chilly. Gisela put on her blue winter coat. We all also drank green tea while on the boat. Phet told us people also take the slow boat from northern Thailand to Laos. It often takes about two days. The ship is made to have more comfortable areas for people to sleep. Gisela and I thought that sounded fun to do in the future.
As we rode the boat, Phet told us of the places we passed by. Many people had farms by the river because of the fertile land. Wealthier Laotian families also had houses with views of the river. They had their crop fields in their yards. We also saw tiny houses on stilts near the river. Phet told us that was where fishermen stayed for the night, and they would wake up every few hours to catch fish. The fisherman also caught fish during daylight. It wasn’t an easy life. The wooden houses were also on stilts in case of floods during the monsoon season. Laos’s monsoon season is from May to October. We traveled during the dry season, so we didn’t need to worry about getting rained on. We also saw small fisherman boats. The fishermen were working hard to catch fish. Kudos to them for all that they do for their communities!
Phet also showed us parts of the Mekong that were marked to signal boats not to go there because of dangerous rocks. Otherwise, the Titanic would happen all over again! We also saw small villages along the river. The boat was the most efficient way for the local people to get from village to village due to accessibility to the Mekong. I was enjoying my experience in the Mekong. The area was tranquil and beautiful. I felt connected to nature, and my five senses enjoyed everything. The beautiful views, the pleasant sounds of the wind and the boat moving, the smell of the crisp air, the taste of the fresh hot green tea, the feeling of wind touching my fur, and me comfortably sitting using Gisela’s backpack as a blanket to keep my body warm.
Then, we stopped at the village known for producing and selling Lao whiskey. The name of the village was Ban Xang Hai. Phet showed us how Lao whiskey and rice wine were made. They take about a month to produce, and the base is air-filtrated sticky rice. The rice is steamed in a bamboo basket and goes from sticky rice to regular rice. The producers then put yeast, and everything ferments for three weeks and then is tossed into a tank to boil the rice. There is another filtration system to lower the alcohol content. The drinks are cooled, and it’s time to start the party! Lao whiskey has 50% alcohol content, while rice wine has 15%. Sometimes, snakes, scorpions, and lizards are put in the bottle with the alcohol. Gisela and I found that rather disturbing.
Anyway, we got to sample one shot of Lao whiskey and two different rice wines. We liked the rice wine a lot. The Lao whiskey was severely strong. Alcohol generally got to Gisela’s head fast because of her skinny body. After sampling drinks, two little village girls said hello to us. One of them wanted a high five from Gisela. The girls were adorable and friendly. The village was also known for making silk and cotton fabrics and clothing. There were various handicraft shops and stands in the village. We also saw a group of Buddhist nuns visiting from Vietnam. The nuns practiced Mahayana Buddhism (a branch of Buddhism practiced in Vietnam, Korea, China, Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, and religious minorities in the Philippines and Indonesia; Theravada Buddhism is mainly practiced in Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand, while Vajrayana Buddhism is practiced primarily in Tibet, India, Nepal, Bhutan, and Mongolia). In Laos, it is less common for women to become Buddhist nuns because women have a lot of social obligations. Thus, fewer women live the monastic life. It was also more common for there to be nuns in Mahayana Buddhism compared to Theravada Buddhism.
After visiting Ban Xang Hai, we were back in the boat. We also talked about how Laos was during the pandemic. When Laos went into lockdown in 2020, many people were out of jobs, especially those in the tourism industry, food industry, service workers, and shopkeepers. Because of that, many had to stay at home and not work until the vaccine was available and Laos reopened in phases (internally before slowly opening up to neighboring countries and then the rest of the world). The value of the Laotian kip was also heavily affected due to inflation rising by 35% during the pandemic. At the time of this writing, 1 USD equals 23,500 kip. A few years ago, 1 USD was like 14,000 to 16,000 kip. That lessened the monetary value of individuals’ and households’ savings.
On a positive note, the Lao people complied with mask mandates and social distancing. They did not turn the pandemic into a political debate like the US did. The people were also willing to get their vaccines once they became available in Laos. Laos is also dependent on the tourism industry for the economy. The return of tourism had helped stimulate the economy. Tourism boomed again in 2022, but there was less tourism in 2023 due to the war between Russia and Ukraine and the war between Israel and the Palestinian Territories. I hope that Laos will get more tourists in the coming years. Laos is a beautiful country with beautiful people and beautiful cultures. After our trip, Gisela and I told people we know to visit Laos.
To get back on topic, we also found out that the monthly salary for the average Lao working adult was about 70 USD. Many families struggled financially, and educated Lao people frequently emigrated. This conversation was very sobering. Phet also asked us about our Asia travels from South Korea. We shared that we have been to Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan, Thailand, and Japan and that Gisela had been to China with her school years ago while me, Pastel, was born in China. We also told him that we were going to Vietnam and Cambodia for our Lunar New Year vacations, and we also hoped to do more traveling in March. Phet gave us recommendations for Siem Reap in Cambodia and for Hanoi in Vietnam.
Phet also asked Gisela about her experience teaching English in South Korea. Gisela answered, “It’s quite an experience, but I do get to travel around Asia.” Based on the energy, the tone, and the facial expression when giving her response, Phet understood. Gisela also refused to rant about her challenges. Phet said it was more convenient and cheaper to travel around Asia from Korea. He said Gisela was doing great things for the children because they were learning English at a young age and could use it in their lives. He also asked her about her plans when she returns to the US. Gisela said she hoped to go to graduate school in international affairs in the fall and also work in a field related to that. Phet noted that Singapore is a great place to study that. It was Gisela’s dream to live in Singapore. If she got a job offer there (in a field she’s good at) for a few years, she would take it. I would come too! I loved visiting Singapore a lot.
Phet also talked about his parents and siblings. He also asked Gisela if she had any siblings. Gisela said she had a younger sister in her first year at university. Her sister also studied professional ballet, while Gisela took the languages and international studies route. We passed by another boat, and an older Chinese couple waved. Gisela and I awkwardly waved back. Then we arrived at Pak Ou Caves. There is the lower cave, called Tham Ting, and the upper cave, called Tham Theung.
The caves are known for over 4,000 Buddha images that were put there by local people. It was believed that Lao people visited the caves as early as the 8th century CE after they migrated from southern China. Buddhism wasn’t widespread then, so the caves had shrines dedicated to river spirits. After Buddhism was adopted by the Lao royal family in the 16th century as the state religion, the kings, monks, nuns, and civilians went to Pak Ou caves for pilgrimages every year on Lao New Year’s Day. There are sculptures of various sizes laid out on the wall shelves of the caves. The Buddha images are made of multiple materials, such as wood, stone, and metal. There used to be golden statues. However, they were stolen in the past. As a result, people placed statues of less valuable materials.
The sculptures are in various positions from the Buddha’s life, such as meditation, teaching, walking, asking for rain, reclining, the alms bowl, and the naga position. Tham Ting had over 2,500 Buddha images and an altar where people offered flowers and incense. Another group of nuns from Vietnam were at the caves on a pilgrimage. To get to Tham Theung, we had to hike up stairs up a hill. There were over 2,000 statues there as well. We also saw a water channel where local people washed their Buddha statues on Lao New Year’s Day with sacred water. The caves reminded me of Batu Caves in Malaysia; only Batu Caves had Hindu shrines and temples. Batu Caves also had monkeys everywhere. Pak Ou Caves had Buddha images and Buddhist shrines.
After learning about the caves and getting pictures, we walked down the hill. The Chinese couple we saw earlier said hello to Gisela. She said hello back. After reaching the bottom, we went back to the boat. We enjoyed more of the sunshine and the views of the Mekong and the surrounding nature. Then we talked about getting around Laos. Phet told us that Laos had a high-speed train system, and you could get from Luang Prabang to Vientiane in 2 hours. By car, it takes 8 hours because of the mountainous terrain. The train systems also have mountain tunnels to shorten the travel time. There were even high-speed trains that went to southern China and Thailand and plans for routes to Vietnam.
Phet also showed us pictures of other cities in Laos, such as Vang Vieng, Pakse, and Vientiane. He also showed us a mountain he and previous tourists hiked near Vang Vieng. He said we would like it a lot. He also said if we were to come back to Laos and if we had more time, we could take the slow boat and the high-speed train to travel around and see different parts. He has done previous tours like that. I thought that sounded awesome! Man, I wish I had time to explore Southeast Asia in-depth! For Thailand, Phet said we would like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the north. He said they are similar to Luang Prabang. He also showed us pictures of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and told us the entrance fee was 37 USD. That was so expensive!
Overall, the boat ride was amazing. It was lovely being out in nature, and we had great conversations. We got back to Luang Prabang and got off the boat. We went back in the van, and we went to lunch at a restaurant called Khaiphaen. The restaurant is funded by a nonprofit organization that trains disadvantaged young people to work there, usually of student ages. Many of the students were homeless, or their parents took them out of school and made them beg on the streets—the restaurant aimed to get young people out of these situations and teach them valuable life skills. I liked and supported the community-minded approach.
The restaurant staff also gave us a brochure providing information about children in Laos and what we can do (such as inform an authority figure or an adult; it could even be someone working at a shop or restaurant if nearby) and cannot do (such as give them money or take them to our hotel; that’s dangerous for us and the children) if we see children in unsafe circumstances. The brochure also emphasized the importance of having local organizations work with the children and having local volunteers. After all, they know the children’s culture and language best. Though there are organizations foreigners can volunteer at, there are positions best reserved for local people.
At the restaurant, the staff considered our vegetarian diet and even asked us what food we ate and didn’t eat. The water and ice were also filtered and safe to drink. For lunch, Gisela and I got a lemongrass iced tea, rice cakes with seaweed from the Mekong River, tomatoes and mushrooms, and fried bananas with coconut ice cream for dessert. The food was fresh and fantastic. Gisela and I were so happy to support this restaurant and the people working there. After lunch, we hopped in the van again, and our next destination was Kuang Si Waterfalls. They were an hour away from Luang Prabang. The car ride was enjoyable, and we admired the rural areas.
Many people had their livestock for meat, dairy, and egg consumption. Many also grew their vegetables. We also asked Phet about the Lao education system. He said that some children attend kindergarten from 3 to 5 years old, though it is not compulsory. Children start primary school at 6, and it’s mandatory. The secondary school has a lower-secondary school (think middle school) and an upper-secondary school (high school). Upper-secondary is three years, and the students graduate in 11th grade. To get to upper-secondary schools, students must pass exams. After that, students can enroll in tertiary education such as a Bachelor’s, Master’s, or Doctorate program.
Most children attend public schools, but some parents enroll them in private schools. Some children do not seem to go to school every day because of transportation issues or to help with the family business. We also asked about the healthcare system and the retirement system. People can pay health insurance each month to make medical care accessible. Those who don’t have health problems sometimes choose not to pay for insurance and will pay for it if they develop problems. Healthcare is also more accessible in urban than rural areas, with the major cities seeing an increase in facilities and healthcare personnel. Some places in rural areas still practice traditional medicine.
In terms of retirement, adults usually retire in their sixties, but they have to save a lot of money because the pension might not be enough. Often, their children take care of them. It is common in Lao culture for children to live with their parents for a long time and look after them. In the US, many start to live independently at 18 or in their early twenties. I also noticed that Americans generally have less close relationships with their parents. Laotians have strong relationships with their parents and families. I wish the American culture had more family values. I am getting off-topic again. I learned a lot about what the life for a typical Laotian is like.
Then, we arrived at Kuang Si Waterfalls. The driver dropped us off at the entrance gate. Then Phet showed the staff Gisela’s entrance ticket, and we hopped on an electric golf cart with other tourists. The driver took us up a hill to get to the waterfalls. Electric vehicles were starting to appear in the Laotian market. Solar panels were also appearing because of Laos’s perfect climate. Though coal is still prevalent, the country is switching to more renewable options. Then, we made it to the waterfalls. Phet showed us a place that serves as a conservation center for endangered sun bears and moon bears.
The center is run by a nonprofit charity focused on rescuing these native animals from illegal wildlife trade and poachers. The organization also emphasized that the bears required lifelong care at their rescue center. They also provided the number to call (1601) to report wildlife for sale, as it is illegal in Laos. I was happy to see that the bears were safe and treated well. Gisela got some cute pictures of them. Then, we hiked up the hill to see the waterfalls. The water was a bright turquoise color because of the presence of copper (it turned green during the rainy season), and there were three-tiered falls along the hill flowing into small, shallow ponds.
The highest falls are 60 meters high. There were even areas where visitors were allowed to swim, though the water was too chilly for us. The waterfalls were breathtaking, and it felt like I stepped into a fantasy world. No wonder they are one of the most popular tourist sites in Luang Prabang! After a fantastic moment at the falls, we returned to the bottom and took the electric golf cart to the entrance. Then we got back in the van. We were on the way to our hotel.
At some point, we stopped to see paddy rice fields. Before planting the rice, the fields need a ton of water for irrigation, which is why the rainy season is beneficial. Paddy farming is the primary way of growing rice in Laos, along with other Southeast Asian, South Asian, and South Pacific countries. Oxen and water buffalo are used to work on these farms. These rice fields were mesmerizing, and I could tell the rice would flourish. The farmers and their animals work diligently to produce this crucial staple food. After the rice field, we went back to the hotel. The rest of the car ride was quieter because we were tired. Then we made it back. Phet said he would talk to the hotel staff about giving Gisela and me a late checkout for the next day.
After all, the van would take us to the airport at 3 in the afternoon. When we walked to the lobby, we told the staff about it. The staff member said all the rooms were booked. She felt bad. Gisela said it was okay. She said she could leave her luggage at storage and explore around town between checkout and the arrival time of the van. Phet said he would also give us recommendations for things to do. He said we could visit the morning market, get lunch at the restaurant we ate on the second day, or walk by the Mekong or the historical area. Besides, it would be broad daylight so that we would be safe. Then we thanked Phet for the tour today, and he said he would see us tomorrow afternoon.
Gisela and I went to our room to drop off some things. We put on more bug spray and went to the night market for dinner again. Some of the vendors wore Santa hats, and some women had Santa dresses. We ate so much good food again! We got lap tofu, which was 45,000 kip (about 1.91 USD). It was spicy and delicious! I don’t miss American food one bit! Then we walked down a busy alley with many street food stands. We ordered a vegetable omelet with noodles inside. We also asked for spicy sauce to put on it. The omelet was 20,000 kip (about 0.85 USD). My taste buds were so overjoyed when eating it!
Then, we walked around and explored the bustling markets some more. After that, we stopped at a dessert stand. We got a banana cake for 20,000 kip and a small bread roll coated and filled with chocolate for 10,000 kip (about 0.43 USD). We ate the chocolate bread roll and decided to save the banana cake for the following morning because it was big. After a fun evening exploring the vast night market, we returned to the hotel. We did most of our packing. Then we got ready for bed and went to sleep. This was the best Christmas of our lives!
Days 4 and 5
We woke up early to visit the morning market, which closed at 10. We also wanted to be at the hotel in time for breakfast. We got ready for the day and made sure our luggage was fully packed. Then we left the hotel and walked over to the morning market. It was not far from the night market. The morning market spread down a few smaller streets and one main street. When we got there, the market was vibrant and bustling. There were stands selling meat, poultry, fish from the Mekong, fruit, vegetables, street food, desserts, handicrafts, clothing, and decorations. Many local people were shopping there. The food was freshly made on the spot. Gisela and I also bought some street food. We ordered some banana sticky rice balls. The vendor also suggested the coconut pancake, so we got that as well. We decided to save the food for later.
After a lovely stroll through the morning market, Gisela put the food in her backpack. I guarded it, of course. Then we walked back to our hotel, and on our way, we admired Wat Mai again. We went to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. Gisela and I ate some stir-fried vegetable noodles, vegetable fried rice, a slice of banana pie, and drank fresh watermelon juice. Breakfast was delicious, as always. After breakfast, we went to the hotel balcony and ate the banana sticky rice balls. Then we went to the hotel pool, sat on a beach chair, and sunbathed.
We wanted to relax before checking out. We would also take an overnight flight from Hanoi to Seoul and then take the train from Seoul to Daegu. Gisela had work the next day. While relaxing by the pool, Gisela looked up places for lunch on Happy Cow and things to do in town. On Google Maps, she found a museum called the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center. It was not far from our hotel. It was within walking distance. We decided to go there after lunch. Since checkout was at noon, we would eat lunch, see the museum, and then return to the hotel to pick up our giant backpack and meet with Phet to go to the airport.
After chilling, we went back to our room, ate the coconut pancake, checked the room to make sure we didn’t leave anything behind and went to the lobby to check out. After returning the room key, we asked if we could leave our giant backpack at luggage storage and that we would be back before 3 in the afternoon. The staff said yes. Gisela gave them her heavy backpack. Then she thanked them. We walked to the part of town where the historical sites were and the night market was. We walked past the temples we saw and then into the historical quarter with French colonial architecture. Though the architecture was pretty, I still thought the traditional Lao architecture was more impressive.
The streets were busy with cars, motorbikes, tuk-tuks, and pedestrians. There was so much to see on every corner. Then we found a restaurant that was on Happy Cow, and it was filled with customers. The name was Bouang. We managed to get a table outside. We were facing the lively road. For lunch, we got fried vegetables on lemongrass. They also came with a spicy, flavorful sauce. We also drank Lao green tea. The portion was small, but we were okay with it because we ate a lot of street food between breakfast and lunch. The menu was also expensive by Laotian standards but still very cheap compared to Western standards. The fried vegetables with lemongrass were shy under 3 USD (70,000 kip), and the tea was slightly over a dollar (30,000 kip). The vegetables with lemongrass were fantastic. After lunch, we walked to the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center.
We had to walk up a bit of a hill to get there. The man at the ticket booth who greeted us was friendly. Then he asked Gisela how she knew about the museum. Gisela said she looked it up. He wondered if it was on Google Maps. Gisela said it was. The entrance ticket for foreigners is 30,000 kip (about 1.28 USD) and is free for Lao nationals. The man also told us the exhibits were about different ethnic groups of Laos and that there was a souvenir shop at the end that sold items made by different ethnic groups. We were so excited to see the museum! Then we went to the exhibits. Laos has over 50 recognized ethnic minorities. We also learned of the distribution of the four ethnolinguistic groups: the Tai-Kadai (the biggest category, and the people are in all parts of the country), the Hmong-Yao (concentrated in northern-central Laos), Sino-Tibetan (concentrated in the northernmost parts of Laos), and Austroasiatic (concentrated in northern Laos, southern Laos, and parts of central Laos).
We first learned more about the Akha ethnic minority. They are part of the Sino-Tibetan ethnolinguistic group. The Akha were originally from Tibet and migrated to the southeast Asian countries of Laos, Myanmar, and small parts of Thailand and Vietnam. The Akha do not have a writing system, and stories are passed down orally. Akha people know their family bloodline as far back as 60 generations (to the first Akha person) without recording anything written! They have strong oral traditions. Akha villages have gates and village swings. The gates are designed to protect the towns from dangerous people and animals.
The gates also served as the doors between the human and spirit worlds. People who visit the Akha are also prohibited from touching the village gates. The village swings are used at the end of August to prepare for the harvest and signify the end of weeding rice fields for the season. Because of their Tibetan background, the Akha people originally lived in the mountains. Nowadays, they live in the lowlands because of more accessible access to roads and cities. The Akha also have their sub-groups and clans. Each sub-group has variations in dialects, clothes, traditions, and beliefs. Although there are similarities, there are characteristics that distinguish the clans.
After learning about the Akha people, we learned about the Hmong people. They are part of the Hmong-Yao ethnic group. The Hmong migrated from China to Laos in the early 19th century. As a result of the late migration, many did not have access to land for agriculture. As a result, they settled in the mountains. They practice agriculture on the steep slopes of the mountains. The Hmong are also known for trading with their relatives from abroad. As a result, many have earned money by sending traditional goods (such as traditional medicine, costumes, and cultural objects) to their relatives to resell in the host country. Out of the Laotian ethnic groups, the Hmong have one of the largest overseas diasporas. Many Hmong migrated to the United States, Australia, the United Kingdom, France, and Canada. The Hmong continue to preserve and take pride in their cultural identities even overseas. Though the Hmong are primarily animist, their new year is similar to the lunar calendar’s. The Hmong people typically celebrate it in January. They celebrate for ten days, and they honor spirits and their ancestors by giving offerings and holding feasts. Men and women also find their partners during that time of year because Hmong people marry outside of their clans.
Then we learned about the Kmhmu people, part of the Austroasiatic ethnolinguistic group. They are said to be one of the first inhabitants of Laos. They migrated to the mountains when the Tai people (Lao people, not to be confused with the people of Thailand) established their kingdoms in the valleys for the first thousand years. The Kmhmu people have also traded with the Tai people for a long time. Unlike most ethnic groups, whose clans are categorized by genealogy, the Kmhmu clans are organized by totem animals. The clan also cannot eat the animal of its totem. The Kmhmu people also have large bronzed drums played at important ceremonies. Since they are expensive, many wealthy families own them and use them for special events.
Then we learned about the Tai Dam people. They are part of the Tai-Kadai ethnolinguistic group. They are a Tai sub-group known for preserving their traditional ways of life. This is shown through their mode of dress, social rules, and animist beliefs. Women wear black headscarves with red and yellow trims in different positions based on their marital status, age, social status, and where they are from. If a Tai Dam woman is married, she has a silver hairpiece, and her headscarf is in a top knot. The Tai Dam people were said to have migrated from Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam. Then, they migrated to Laos and other regions in Vietnam. The Tai Dam have their own written script and honor their ancestors and deceased rulers. Due to modern society, their language is critically endangered. Very few people are also literate in their traditional script. Nonetheless, Tai Dam people still practice their traditions by honoring their ancestors and celebrating yearly festivities.
After that, we learned about a smaller ethnic minority known as the Oma. Only 2,800 people are living in close-knit villages in the Phongsaly province in the north near the China border. They migrated from China in the late 19th century after a conflict with Han Chinese. Then, the Oma settled in the mountains of northern Laos. The Oma initially migrated together but then divided into family clans in different parts of the Phongsaly province. Even though they settled in different parts, they maintained contact and positive relationships. The biggest Oma community is in Namam Village. The Oma wear clothing made out of cotton. The fabric is dyed indigo, and the Oma also wears clothing with white and red embroidery. The spiral is a typical design representative of Oma culture. Precisely, the design consists of four spirals stitched in red and white. The design is on the back of the women’s headscarves. Oma women also sell traditional clothing to share their cultural pride with other villagers and visitors and pay for their education and healthcare.
There was an unfortunate situation when Western fashion designers appropriated Oma culture by using their symbols in their designs and claiming it as their own. Cultural appropriation is essentially using symbols or characteristics of another culture without respecting the culture, understanding the culture, and giving credit to said culture. The roles of power and oppression appear because people “borrow” characteristics from marginalized groups for aesthetic reasons. Not only that, it makes it seem like it’s okay for someone to “adopt” fashion from a culture, but when people of that culture wear the same thing, they can face discrimination (e.g., Black Americans face discrimination in the workplace for braided hair and cornrows while White celebrities have appropriated their hairstyles and were seen as “stylish,” even despite criticism). This is especially a problem with Halloween costumes.
Anyway, it’s not always easy to draw the line between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. In appreciation, you take the time to research and understand the culture’s symbols and traditions. In fashion, if you adopt a style from a culture but also add your elements and give credit, transparent acknowledgment, and respect for the culture, then that’s appreciation. The museum exhibit mainly focused on the problem of copying traditional cultural designs and profiting off of them. That’s very unethical. Luckily, the Oma people were able to get their designs copyrighted. They also spoke out against their symbols being misused and appropriated. At the exhibit, we also saw clothes from traditional cultures; only the specific region and culture were mentioned, along with the meaning of the symbols and designs.
After seeing the museum exhibits, we went to the souvenir shop. The souvenir shop had clothing and handicrafts from the various ethnic minorities of Laos. The profits at the shop also went directly to supporting these minorities. The items had clear labels on which ethnic group produced which item and where they were located. We also asked the shopkeeper when unsure which group something came from. Then Gisela bought a woven colorful bracelet made by the Akha people. I got a woven ornament made by the Yao Mien people (a sub-group of the Hmong people). Like with the other shops in Laos, the items had fixed prices, and the prices made sense. We were glad we could support the Laotian ethnic minorities and their cultures.
After visiting the museum, we returned to our hotel and waited outside for a few minutes. Phet and the driver’s van came a little before 3. Gisela got her giant backpack, and then we got in the car. Phet asked us about our day, and Gisela shared what we did. He was glad we had a great day and that we got to visit the ethnic minority museum. He also asked us about our next trip. We were going to Cebu for our New Year’s vacation. Phet thought that sounded like a fun place to go to. We also asked him about the Lao calendar since Lao New Year was mid-April. The Lunar New Year was typically at the end of January or early February. The Lao calendar followed the Buddhist lunisolar calendar (year one was the year Gautama Buddha reached the afterlife). The years are given animal names from a cycle of 12, similar to the lunar calendar. We would enter the year of the ox based on the Lao calendar. Lao people still used the Gregorian calendar in their lives.
After an informative discussion, we made it to the airport. Phet said he was going to go with us to check-in. We said goodbye to the driver and thanked him in Lao. Then, we checked in for our flight to Hanoi. We thanked Phet for the beautiful tour, and he thanked us for visiting his country. He hoped to see us again to see other parts of Laos. After we parted ways, we changed money. We didn’t have enough to change to South Korean won, but the teller said we could change to Vietnamese dong. After all, we were going to Vietnam soon and also visit it in February. Then, we went through immigration and security. The airport was small, so everything was quick. Then, we waited and boarded our flight to Hanoi. We looked at the mountainous landscape and the city of Luang Prabang before stepping on the plane. The flight was a little over an hour.
After we landed in Hanoi, we went through immigration. Since it was in the evening, the line was much shorter than when we arrived. Then we ate dinner at an airport restaurant. We got vegetable fried rice with a side salad and drank a fancy strawberry lemonade. After dinner, we did our usual business of checking in for our flight to Seoul, going through immigration and security, and walking to our gate. We relaxed in a massage chair before our flight. Then we got on an airport bus to go to our plane. Gisela and I slept most of the flight to Seoul, only we were in an uncomfortable seating position. I was squished in her backpack.
Then we went through a surprisingly long immigration line despite it being 5 in the morning, took an airport train to Seoul Station, ate breakfast at Lotteria, took the train to Daegu, and took the urban bus to our apartment. When we arrived, our apartment was cold because Gisela had the heater off in case of a fire while we were gone. She took a boiling hot shower. Then, she took a short nap, ate lunch, and went to work. I rested at home.
Laos was one of my favorite trips I have done. I enjoyed the well-organized tour of Luang Prabang so much and explored a lot in such a short time. The hotel was clean, beautifully decorated, in an excellent location (near the markets and the major tourist sites), and had friendly staff members. Phet was a phenomenal tour guide. I learned much about Lao culture, history, environment, gastronomy, and the different places around that beautiful country. I also enjoyed hearing about Phet’s life. He and the driver were always punctual.
Additionally, I appreciated that Gisela and I were taken to places run by locals who directly supported local communities. The Laotian culture is easygoing, calm, and centered around family and friends. Luang Prabang was a great city to explore, and I felt safe there. Use common sense and be aware of your surroundings and valuables like elsewhere. Laos has also made a lot of progress over the years. Despite realities such as poverty, the people are very proactive and hardworking. I am optimistic about the future of the country. I end this article wishing the best for the people of Laos!
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